wood turtles

The wood turtles eats both animal and plant food items, including berries, herbs, algae, moss, fungi, grass, insects, mollusks, earthworms, dead fish, tadpoles, newborn mice and other turtles‘ eggs. It will forage on the ground, in the water, in herbaceous vegetation, and on logs.

Habitat

Prefer lowland hardwood forests and open wet meadows associated with moderate to fast current streams and rivers with sand or gravel substrates. May forage in upland deciduous mesic forest and open meadows in summer. Use south facing sandy river banks or flat sandy soil openings adjacent to rivers for nesting sites, including gravel banks, roadsides, fields, and meadows. Hatchling and juveniles prefer alder thickets associated with shorelines and are considered critical habitat for this segment of the population.



Activity

The wood turtles is primarily diurnal, although Farrell and Graham (1991) have observed that mating and nesting can extend into the night. wood turtles regulate their body temperatures by basking in the sun or cooling off in puddles and mud. Depending on local climate, wood turtles begin hibernating in October or November and emerge in April or May.

Breeding and Propagation

Male and female wood turtles often engage in a courtship ritual that involves swinging their heads at each other. When the female is receptive, the male mounts her, usually in shallow water. They are most likely to mate in spring and fall, although they can mate at any time they are not hibernating. After mating, usually in the early summer, the female turtles build a nest in a sunny, sandy bank near water. She can only produce one clutch, usually consisting of between 5 and 13 eggs, per year. Most eggs fall prey to raccoons, shrews, skunks, and other animals. Eggs hatch after between 47 and 69 days of incubation. It is reported that unlike most turtles, the sex of the hatchling is not dependent on the temperature of incubation. It is estimated that fewer than 30% of the wood turtles eggs laid hatch each year.

Ecology

The wood turtles is one of the most terrestrial turtles in the United States, and is usually found inhabiting forested areas associated with rivers or streams. The species prefers streams with harder substrates, moderate currents and clear water. The wood turtles is omnivorous and may be observed eating insects, worms, and even strawberries and blackberries! Interestingly, researchers in central Pennsylvania and Michigan have also observed wood turtles “stomping” for worms! The activity involves an individual stomping with one front foot several times and then switching and stomping with the other front foot. Researchers speculate that the vibrations created by the turtles “stomping” the ground may mimic the vibrations produced by raindrops…and as most people know, worms surface during rainfall events. Once a worm surfaces, the wood turtles quickly eats it.

for:http://www.turtles-house.com

Photographing Fish: 5 Tips For Frustrated Beginners

Photographing pets can often be a difficult proposition. Add water, glass reflections and the low lighting of an aquarium environment, and you've got the recipe for one extremely difficult photo shoot.

But it doesn't have to be that hard. Armed with the following tips, you can get great photos of your fish in just about any situation.

1: Get a tripod.

Tripods are usually used for non-moving subjects. But they can be immensely helpful when photographing fish, even ones that are constantly moving. Low light levels lead to slow shutter speeds. So anything you can do to stabilize the camera will be of tremendous help. The best way to photograph moving fish with your camera on a tripod is to loosen the levers on the tripod so you can move the camera freely left, right, up and down but the camera will remain in position if left alone.

2: Get your fish acquainted with the camera.

Now that you have a tripod (since you faithfully followed the first tip), set it up in front of your aquarium with the camera mounted on the tripod. Now leave it. For as long as possible... several days would be ideal. The purpose of this exercise is to get the fish used to seeing the "thing" you're constantly moving around, pointing it at them and making noises. When they're comfortable with the sight of the camera, they'll be more relaxed and less prone to dart around the tank or hide.

3: Use a digital camera.

Digital cameras allow us to "just take the picture" without worrying about whether we're wasting the film and processing money on a shot that won't be good. When you can focus on getting the best shot possible, no matter how many tries it takes, you're on the right track to get the shot you want.

4: Turn off the lights in the room.

Ambient light causes reflections on the tank glass that may ruin a perfectly good fish photograph. Eliminate all sources of ambient light that you can, and be very aware of any reflections as you shoot. If there are some reflections you can't get rid of, try putting your body between the light source and the glass to shield the tank from the light.

5: Clean the glass, cut the pumps.

Turning off the aquarium pumps before you shoot is an excellent way to clean up your shots of particles and bubbles in the water column. and if you happen to have a planted freshwater tank or reef aquarium, this will also prevent the plants or corals from swaying in your picture, turning into a blurry mess.

Cleaning the glass is probably the most overlooked step to aquarium photography, and quite possible is responsible for more ruined photos than any other issue. Remember, just because you don't see it now, doesn't mean you won't see it in the picture. Amazing how that happens. So clean the glass well, every time, before you pick up the camera.

6: A Bonus!

Have fun. Aquarium photography can become an interesting and challenging hobby all its own. Have fun with it, experiment freely, and be sure to share your pictures online!

Feather Plucking : A Major Problem for the African Grey Parrot

Feather plucking is known to be a very nasty habit of the african grey parrot. They are notorious feather pluckers. It is said that the Timneh African Grey parrots are not as bad as the Congo African Grey Parrots when it comes to feather plucking. But this is not a proven fact.

First of all any parrot keeper should ask himself why do parrots pluck their feathers. There are many different reasons for this nasty habit. The African grey parrot is a parrot species that need quite much attention from his human owner. If this doesn't happens then the bird will probably get bored and this can result to feather plucking. But belive me that the this feather plucking problem is very complicated because it's very hard to resolve it. There were cases when the african greys plucked their feathers because of getting to much attention. So you just don't know exactly how to treat your bird. Dietary imbalances, or environmental problems may also take to feather plucking. Some environmental problems could be smocking very much in the room where the parrot is kept or keeping him in a space with dry air. Also is recommended for african grey parrots to get regular baths or to be exposed to some kind of moist air. The african grey parrots shouldn't encounter any frightening experiences because this can take to feather plucking.

If this nasty habit appears in you bird's daily activities than you should first see a veterinarian. He will probably try to find a physical explanation for the bird's problem. It's best to try to understand what the veterinarian explains and try to find some ways of resolving the problem. It is proven that the african grey parrot is the most intelligent species. His higher degree of intelligence, along with possible incorrect early socialization at the breeders and not understanding the bird’s intellectual needs when it becomes a companion parrot often leads to neurotic habits -- such as plucking.

Timnehs african grey parrots don't pluck their feathers as much as the congo african grey parrot. This could be because they were not as popular as the congo african parrot. Because of their duller coloration they weren't as licked as the congo.

In conclusion the feather plucking is a major problem for the african grey parrots because they are very difficult birds to take care of.

Can Pets Have Allergies?

When many of us think of allergies, we, humans, are often the first thing that comes to mind. There are millions of Americans, alone, who suffer from allergies. These allergies may be due to food, mold, mildew, as well as the weather. Although humans are the most common sufferers of allergies, did you know that pets can also develop allergies? They can. In fact, dogs are the most common animals that suffer from allergies.

When it comes to determining if your dog or pet has allergies, many individuals do not know how to proceed. For starters, it is important to look for the symptoms. In fact, did you know that some pet allergy symptoms are similar to the ones that humans show? They are. One of the most commons signs that your pet may have an allergy is if they are constantly itching themselves. Another sign is that of skin irritation. With that being said, constant itching and skin irritation often go hand in hand.

Although it is relatively easy for some pet owners to determine if their pets are suffering from allergies, some are still unsure. If that describes you, you will want to seek medical attention for your dog, cat, or any other pet that may have allergies. A vet can do a number of tests, as well as examine your dogs skin to determine if they are suffering from allergies. Before you take your dog to the vet, you are encouraged to write down any questions that you may have or anything that may have caused you concerned. For example, did your dog start itching after getting into some weeds your backyard? Did you just change their pet food or give them a new pet toy or a new pet bed? If so, your vet should know.

Another one of the many reasons why it is a good idea to take your dog or cat to the vet is because you will likely end up doing so anyways. Many humans are able to stop itching, even when the urge to do so seems uncontrollable. Pets on the other hand, aren't always able to do so. If you notice that your dog is itching a specific area of their body for more than two or three days, a visit to the vet may be in order. The same should be said, if you notice a skin rash or any broken skin. If left untreated, your pet may develop an infection, which is actually much worse that just having allergies.

As for how your dog or cat can be treated if they do have allergies, it is best that you follow the advice of your vet. This is because some of the medications prescribed may be for animals only, but some may also be human medications. The only thing is that not all medications are ideal for dogs; therefore, it is important to follow the advice of your vet. As for treatment, many prescribe antibiotic and antifungal cream for rashes or infections that may have already developed on the skin. Other preventative steps will likely be taken. For example, if your dog is allergic to a specific weed in your backyard, you may need to remove it or keep your dog away from the area. Although the treatment offered is likely to vary, most options will immediately provide relief to pets that are suffering.

Do Electric Pet Fences Really Work?

Many dogs delight in chasing cars or bicycles, which causes them to run into the street where they may be injured or even killed. They may also run out to greet visitors and people walking by - especially those walking their dogs. Or they may simply have a wander lust to check out everything in their neighborhood and beyond. Responsible pet owners need a way to ensure that their dog is safe at all times.

Fencing an entire yard or even a large enough area for your dog to get the proper exercise can become quite expensive. Also, many subdivisions won't allow certain types of fencing, so you may be limited in your choices. In addition, most communities have leash laws that won't allow your dog to run loose, so some type of fencing is mandatory for a dog who spends unsupervised time outside.

An electric pet fence may be the best solution for all situations. The system is designed to establish boundaries for your pets so they will stay within a specified area. An invisible fence boundary can be installed practically anywhere - through hilly rocky terrain, wooded areas or even under water - all at a fraction of the cost of traditional fencing.

This type of system typically consists of boundary wire, a transmitter, a receiver that is attached to your dog's collar, a test light, training flags and a sign. If you have multiple dogs each one will need its own customized, computerized collar.

The wire is buried around the perimeter of the boundary area to establish the dog's free-roaming territory. A transmitter sends a radio signal along the buried wire, which is picked up by your pet's receiver collar. It emits a warning sound when the dog approaches the invisible boundary followed by a correction sensation.

Will your dog be harmed by the electric collar? Not at all, although the collar may be a bit uncomfortable at first due to the unexpected weight and bulk of the receiver in the collar. The sensation the dog feels if he gets too close to the boundary wire is similar to the sensation we feel when walking across a carpet and then touching a metal object. Annoying, but not painful.

To keep your pet in their safe play zone at all times, it's important to be sure your system is operating properly, so check it on a regular basis. Inspect the boundary wire to ensure it's intact and has power. Some electric fences come equipped with lights or a sound to alert you when there is a problem with the wire or power. Also, test the battery in the dog's collar regularly to be sure it is functioning properly. If the system isn't working, your precious pet is not protected.

Once your electric fence has been installed and tested, it's time to train your dog to understand how the system works. The training typically takes about two to three weeks. If you're training a puppy, it's best to begin when they are at least 8 weeks old and will obey basic commands.

In simple terms, the training consists of putting the computerized collar on your dog and walking him around the boundary area on a lead. The training flags will be an indication to both you and your dog where the boundary line has been established. Don't lead your dog too close to the flags, as the warning sound and correction can become more of a deterrent than a positive reinforcement. Let the dog walk along and learn on his own how close he can come to the flags.

Many fencing companies offer training as part of the installation package, which is certainly a plus and highly recommended. If training isn't included, there are training videos available. Do some research on the proper training procedures before you begin. You want this to be a positive learning experience for your pet rather than having your dog feel he is being disciplined for bad behavior.

Once your pooch has successfully learned the acceptable outdoor boundaries of his play area and the flags have all been removed, it's now okay to take your dog for a walk outside the area.

Establish a routine that is consistently used every time. Walk your dog to a point about a foot inside the edge of the boundary line and tell him to 'sit' or 'wait.' Be sure you're not so close that the computerized collar is being activated. Put the collar on that he associates with being walked on a lead and attach a short lead to this collar. Remove the computerized collar and then walk him across the boundary with a clear command such as "Ok, let's go."

By following this exact routine every time you leave the boundary area for a walk, your dog will learn that he can safely cross the boundary only under this specific set of circumstances.

When you return from your walk, enter the 'safe' boundary at the same place you left. Put the computerized collar back on your dog and remove the other collar and lead. Test your dog to make sure he remembers that when the computerized collar is on, he can only enjoy his established free area, and he can't leave this area on his own. Act like you are leaving the area again without speaking to your dog. If he follows you he will be corrected by the fence system. This reinforces the idea that he can safely leave the area only when a specific routine is followed.

Keep in mind that this system keeps your dog inside the boundary, but it won't prevent other dogs or animals from entering the area. If your dog is unsupervised when outside, make sure there is a way that he can get to safety inside the house or another secure area. A pet door is an excellent option.

Electric fence systems can also be used to train cats to stay within a specified area whether inside or out. They can be trained to stay off table tops and counters and both dogs and cats can be trained to stay away from each other's food and other areas where conflict may occur.

Electric pet fences really do work, and they provide an extra measure of safety and security for your precious pets. Your dog will reward you with playful exuberance and exemplary behavior inside their special playground.

Easy Tips For House Breaking Your Puppy

If you are lucky enough to get a 7-week-old puppy, there is no excuse for any bad habits to develop over his lifetime. Puppies learn INSTANTLY when they are that young, and if you use the proper training methods, gentle but consistent, he will behave like an angel his whole life through.

The most important training, of course, is housebreaking. Boys are easier than girls because exploring outside is their favorite thing. They just cannot get enough of all the new smells out there!

The main key to housebreaking is watching. Watch your puppy AND the clock. Once every hour is not too often on a day he is active and the weather is good. The younger the pup, the more often he needs to go out, mostly because he is growing so fast. He must drink more water to fuel his metabolism than he does as an adult. Also, since he eats three or four times a day, you know what that means.

Watch him for subtle changes. If he is happily chewing his toy, and gets up suddenly with his nose to the floor, move quickly! He is ready to squat! If he has had a nice nap, get him out of his crate and outside right away. If he has just had a good grooming, it stimulates his circulation and guess what? Time to go out again. And of course after a meal, watch him extra close.

Things to remember:
---Do not punish him for mistakes. They are YOUR fault. Every time you take him out he will go, and praise praise and praise! Happy face, laughter, happy noises! He loves your happy face. When he makes a mistake, your frown and your face turned away from him is all the punishment he needs. He will get the point.

---He is learning English, you must use the same phrases over and over. "Good go potty!" "Hafta go potty?" "Wanna go potty?" He can learn in one afternoon that "go potty" means a jaunt outside and your happy face. Whatever phrase you choose, stick with it.

---I cannot recommend strongly enough getting a crate. They truly help with all phases of his training. They make him more secure, provide him with his very own private space and a place for him to hide his favorite toys and chewies. This is even more important if you have other adult dogs in the house.

Be consistent, always be kind and gentle, and be patient as he learns your language, and your puppy will always look forward to his training sessions. Dogs love to work!

Vestibular Disease in Dogs and Cats

The vestibular system controls balance and prevents an animal from falling over. It does this by holding and constantly adjusting the position of the eyes, head and body in relation to gravity. When there is disease affecting this system, though it is seldom life threatening, the symptoms caused can be particularly distressing for a pet owner. Animals may tilt their head to one side, circle either clockwise or anticlockwise, fall over repeatedly, roll to one side, be generally wobbly and display abnormal pupil movement in their eyes. Here we look at the physiology of the vestibular system in dogs and cats, what can go wrong and how a good veterinarian will diagnose and treat it.

What exactly is the vestibular system?

The vestibular system is a sensory system consisting of a receptor organ within the inner ear, the vestibular nerve itself, and a balance control centre at the back of the brain. The receptor organ in the inner ear detects the position and movement of the head in space, both when the animal is resting or moving. Information on the position of the head is converted into electrical signals, which are transmitted via the vestibular nerve to the brain. The balance control centre in the brain then processed this information, and sends motor signals to the muscles controlling the positions of the eyes and limbs according to the movement of the head.

What is vestibular syndrome?

Vestibular syndrome is a general term describing disease of the vestibular system. The term alone does not provide any information on which part of the vestibular system is affected, and what the cause is.

What are the signs to look out for?

Animals with vestibular disease may display any or all of the following signs:

1. Head tilt

This is rotation of the head so that one ear is lower than the other. It occurs due to loss of antigravity muscle tone on one side of the neck.

2. Circling

Circling often occurs with vestibular disease, but can also occur with forebrain tumors. Generally, tight circles mean vestibular disease while wide circles mean a brain tumor.

3. Nystagmus (wandering pupils)

This means involuntary rhythmic movement of the eyeballs. The pupils tend to drift to one side (the slow phase) and then jerk back to the middle (the fast phase). Usually the slow phase is toward the diseased side.

4. Strabismus (squint)

This means abnormal position of the eyeballs, rather like the condition commonly known as a squint.

5. Ataxia (wobbliness)

This means walking in an uncoordinated fashion, and is seen with a wide range of diseases other than vestibular disease, such as those affecting the brain, spinal cord or peripheral nerves. Animals can adopt a broad based stance, exhibit swaying of the head, and leaning, falling and rolling to one side.

Peripheral vs Central Vestibular Disease

Vestibular disease is categorized as either peripheral or central, according to where in the system the disease originates from. Peripheral vestibular disease is where the disease is located in either the receptor organs in the inner ear or the vestibular nerve. Central vestibular disease is where the disease is located in the balance control centre in the brain (to be precise, either in the brainstem vestibular nuclei or in the cerebellum).

The first task for the veterinarian is to identify whether he or she is dealing with peripheral or central vestibular disease. This is done by looking carefully for all of the symptoms described above, and further characterizing them by direction and nature. It is beyond the remit of this article to go into the exact way of differentiating them clinically, and though it can usually be achieved by a competent vet by examination alone, sometimes further tests are necessary to do so.

Causes of peripheral vestibular syndrome

1. Middle or inner ear disease (infection or tumor)
2. Nasopharyngeal polyps
3. Head trauma
4. Drug toxicity (e.g. gentamycin)
5. Underactive thyroid gland
6. Congenital (present at birth)
7. Idiopathic (cause unidentifiable)

Causes of central vestibular syndrome

1. Brain hemorrhage or infarct
2. Infectious encephalitis (bacterial, viral or fungal)
3. Meningoencephalitis
4. Head trauma
5. Drug toxicity (e.g. metronidazole)
6. Brain cyst
7. Brain tumor (primary or metastatic)
8. Thiamine deficiency
9. Neurodegenerative disease

Making a diagnosis

First, the veterinarian must distinguish between peripheral and central disease based on clinical signs. If there is doubt, diagnostics for both should be done. If the veterinarian suspects central disease, he or she may choose to rule out peripheral disease with various tests first because the tests for central disease are expensive (e.g. MRI or CT scan).

The following procedure is what is most commonly done when looking for causes of peripheral vestibular disease. If drug toxicity has been ruled out (no metronidazole, aminoglycoside antibiotics or topical chlorhexidine recently) then the external ears are examined using an otoscope (illuminated and magnified inspection device with a rigid conical end which is inserted into the ear canal). Ear infections, tumors and polyps may be detected this way. Middle ear disease is suspected if the ear drum appears to be ruptured, bulging, cloudy or red in color. Thyroid levels are usually measured by a blood test at this stage to rule out hypothyroidism.

The next step of the investigation is taking xrays of the skull. Several views are required but the most important one is that which shows the tympanic bullae in the middle ears most clearly. This requires general anesthesia to allow correct positioning.

If the tests at this stage have all come back normal, many cases will be given a presumptive diagnosis of idiopathic vestibular syndrome. This is usually because a) it is by far the most likely diagnosis, and b) further specialized tests are costly. If however further tests are to be carried out, MRI or CT scanning, electromyography and nerve conduction studies are a possibility in some referral centers.